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    In the absence of conventional shows at NYFW, a number of alternative presentation models have been adopted with varying degrees of success: film shorts (Christian Cowan), runway shows sans audiences (Jason Wu, Raisavenessa) and capsule-like videos in static locations (Epimonia, The Blonds). What most of these shows highlight is the
  • Proenza Schouler Fall 21
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    NYFW has been noticeable for a number of reasons this season, some of them obviously related to the pandemic (the utilization of big, empty spaces) and some of them corollaries of it: irrespective that bigger designers and fashion houses always have more money to spend on lavish shows with impressive
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    NYFW is very concerned with space this season. The shows are already notable as much for their choice of architecture as much for the clothes – Raisavanessa utilized post-modern metal and glass while Jason Wu opened his own ‘General Store’ in Noho. Both shows sans guests, of course. This emptiness
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    Generally the people at Vogue send a photographer to the shows each season just to snap all the trendy buyers and (fortunate) students on their way in. These people are frequently wearing something notional from the country or label whose show they’re going to see – they’re dressed as an
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    Vivienne Westwood RTW Spring 2020 The equalizer, Black. The tone brings its own baggage and as well as you’ll say it (Saint Laurent says it best, for the record) – you have to say it right. Once a year it’ll get a glossy re-appraisal as if anyone really needed reminding
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    It was – of course – only a matter of time: Vogue’s feature on Zoom-tailored looks (that are de rigueur up top and generally scanty below the belly button) joins the UK Guardian’s feature on what on-screen bookshelves say about the those who bought the books, to generic articles on keeping it simple, smart and