In the year it takes the fashion calendar to turn full circle, things – whether progressively or drastically – change.
In Gucci‘s case, its gradual evolution along an imperfect and sometimes inconsistent trajectory means that, ultimately, little changes. It remains Capo at the head of the Italian fashion table.
Is Gucci‘s success despite itself? Or is a little conflict the spark that lights the flame?
For seven years, Kering managed the unweldy animal by channeling auteuristic ideals through the startling vision of CD Alessandro Michele.
Michele attempted to turn the brand into a commecially successful art project.
Anti-fashion, spareness, sadomasochism, Edwardianism and genderlessness were all features of an avante garde leaning.
Supported straight face by ‘twin’ Jared Leto in a ZZ Top beard, and models carrying their own heads.
That it lasted so long!
Kering have, alas, about turned (a very Gucci thing to do) towards the departed ghost of Tom Ford, with Sabato de Sarno as the head now. Its down to the fashion cycle conundrum – creativity is necessary to stay ahead of the game, but luxury customers want something they can wear to restaurants.
For SS 24 Sarno appeared to be sifting for that happy medium. Amongst the sexiness there were bralettes that were a sharp throwback to Michele.
A better balance is currently on display at Louis Vuitton. Kering, having made the soft play will soon be looking at their troublesome neighbours in envy. And so the cycle continues.
